
Wild flowers on Mt Howitt
If I were to make a list of my favourite hiking destinations in Victoria then the area surrounding Mt Howitt would be in heavy competition for the number one spot. The hike from Mt Howitt to Mt Speculation follows the path of the Australian Alps Walking Track as it makes its way along the Crosscut Saw. Many would describe this as one of the must-do hikes in the Alpine National Park and having just made the journey myself I can only but agree.
The region falls into the Wonnangatta-Moroka unit of the Alpine National Park, approximately a 5 hour drive from Melbourne. We completed the hike in a South to North direction so the starting point was Howitt Plains car park. There are several other ways to access Mt Howitt but none as close or with as little ascent as Howitt Plains.
Travelling via Traralgon and Licola the drive to Howitt Plains is by no means quick or easy, but it does pass through some amazing alpine country along the way. Licola will be your last opportunity to make sure you have appropriate fuel and supplies for the trip as it is approximately 80km each way to Howitt Plains. From here on there are very few facilities along the route. Shortly after leaving Licola the road will become unsealed and climb into the alps, from here on weather conditions can change rapidly with snow being possible nearly all year round. Depending on the road conditions it can take 2hrs or more to reach Howitt Plains from Licola however there is no shortage of stops that can me made along the way to breakup the trip.

Howitt Road
Before travelling along Howitt Road you should check the conditions in advance with Parks Victoria either online or over the phone. In addition to the seasonal closure from the Queens Birthday weekend in June to the 28th of October, the road may be closed at any time due to flood damage or snow inundation. Howitt Road is really only suitable for AWD/4WD vehicles with higher clearance. 2WD vehicles may at times be able to make the trip if conditions are favourable.
As you make the trip along Tamboritha and Howitt roads there are a few stops which are definitely worth a look. Down low just after leaving Licola there are many campsites beside the river which would make a great place to stop if you were arriving in the area too late to reach Howitt Plains. A little further into the trip (after turning onto Howitt Road) you will reach a turnoff for Dimmick Lookout. A short 4WD trail leaves the main road and takes you towards a steep cliff at the edge of the high plains. The lookout has fantastic views down into the Wonnangatta Valley.

Dimmick Lookout
Another place to well worth a stop is Howitt Plains Hut. Built in the early 1900′s by a grazing family from the Wonnangatta Valley, the Hut was used for refuge when grazing cattle on Howitt Plains in the summer months. Although parts of the hut have been rebuilt over time, much of it remains in its original condition. The site around the hut would be great for camping and there is a pit toilet nearby also.

Howitt Plains Hut
Not much further along the road from the Hut is Howitt Plains car park. This is the starting point for the hike. Having made a few stops along the way it was already about 4pm but this wasn’t a problem as our camp for the night was only an hour away at Maccalister Springs. The track to Mac Springs snakes its was through the snow gums with only a few small climbs along the way. This track can get a bit boggy if there has been rain, so gaiters and waterproof hiking boots would certainly come in handy. Just before reaching Mac Springs there are 2 options for the last few minutes of the walk. You can either follow the track direct to the campsite, or you can take a route closer to the edge of the ridge. If you take the 2nd option you will get a great view out to the Razor and the Viking, along with the Wonnangatta Valley.

The Razor & The Viking in the distance
When you reach Maccalister Spring you will be greeted by the pleasant site of Vallejo Gantner Hut. More often just called Gantner Hut, this refuge is pretty cool both inside and out. It has an eye catching triangular design which is far different to most of the other huts in the high country. On the inside there is a second floor mezzanine for sleeping which has a huge glass window that looks out onto the Crosscut Saw. Around Mac Springs there are heaps of campsites available and the spring is a fairly reliable water source. Also worth noting is the pit toilet which also has a large window overlooking the valley. Probably a one of a kind loo-with-a-view.

Vallejo Gantner Hut
After cooking up pasta with tuna for dinner we settled into our sleeping bags and watched the clouds get caught on the Crosscut. About 8 hours later we woke to a completely different view, this time the morning sun was catching the eastern side of the Crosscut, highlighting the hike before us. With breakfast and all the usuals out of the way we got moving and headed towards Mt Howitt. The track dips down as it passes along the top of the Devils Staircase before rising up again onto Mt Howitt. We reached the junction of the Australian Alps Walking Track and chose to leave our packs here.

AAWT Junction
The walk to the summit of Mt Howitt is nice and easy and offers great views in just about every direction. Having been at the summit on a sunny day on a previous trip to Mt Howitt, it was just our luck that the weather would be different on this occasion. As we approached the summit a band of clouds slowly moved closer and closer, by the time we were at the top we were totally surrounded. Although these clouds were harmless and dry, it does highlight how easily the weather can change in this area. We could have just as easily been drench by rain or snow if it was a little cooler.

Surrounded by cloud on Mt Howitt
Having made an early start we were back at the track junction by 9.30am. From here we picked up the AAWT and headed in a northerly direction, before long we reached the first section of the Crosscut Saw. The ridge line of the Crosscut links Mt Howitt to Mt Speculation, and as the name suggests, its terrain is much like a saw blade. There are many short, sharp climbs and descents to negotiate along the way. But don’t be deterred by this as there are many other great aspects to the walk, the views are spectacular and the terrain is constantly changing to keep things interesting.

The Crosscut Saw
Just after commencing the Crosscut walk you will pass a Wilderness Zone entry sign. This marker indicates that the AAWT is passing through a declared wilderness zone and that there will be no directional markers along the route. Although most sections of the foot track along the Crosscut are pretty well defined, there are a few areas where the track may disappear or become difficult to follow. Junctions of the AAWT and other walking tracks are not marked and can be very easy to miss. You should be confident enough to navigate your own way along the route.

Wilderness Area entry sign
After about 2 1/2 hours, and a lot of up & down we reached Mt Buggery. The final drop then climb up to the peak was pretty tough so it made a great lunch spot. There isn’t all that much at Mt Buggery, just a small clearing and a rock cairn to mark the top. To either side the Crosscut the terrain drops steeply so it does feel a little bit isolated, but the view into the Wonnangatta and Howqua Valleys makes up for that. There is enough of a clearing to camp if you got into trouble, this would be one of the few flat and protected sites along the Crosscut.

A rock cairn marks the top of Mt Buggery
After lunch we donned our packs again and started the steep descent down the northern side of Mt Buggery. This would be the last dip in the Crosscut before reaching Mt Speculation, unfortunately with every dip comes a climb though. The climb to Mt Speculation does start off quite steep but slowly eases off as it approaches the summit. Just before reaching the top there are also a few rock chutes that much be negotiated. Some of the lower ones are smaller and can even be walked around but the final and largest one must be climbed. The foot track ends right at the base of the 4 or 5 meter high chute. The channel up the rock is obvious but care must be taken, especially on the way back down with a full pack. In the wet it might even be worth making a longer walk around the ridge to avoid the chute all together.

Luke climbing the final rock chute
Having made it up the chutes it is an easy stroll along the summit ridge. The views are fantastic in just about every direction and you get great perspective on the route just travelled. Camping on the summit in nice weather would be fantastic, but to my knowledge the nearest water is 1km or more away at Camp Creek. We chose to make the extra walk over the northern side of Mt Spec and down to the campsite at Camp Creek, the track to reach the campsite forks off at a yellow AWWT tree marker, very easy to miss so keep your eyes peeled.

The junction of the Mt Spec walking track and the AWWT is marked only by an easy to miss yellow tree marker.
The campsite at Camp Creek doesn’t really have any interesting views but it is sheltered and has welcome water and a fire pit. A series of small clearings flow into the trees so don’t be fooled into thinking you have to camp on the edge of the gravel road. However if you do follow the road south for 50m or so it will lead you to water at the creek. We had arrived at Camp Creek by 3pm after our walk along the Crosscut so we had plenty of time to setup camp and have an afternoon siesta. After waking up we made mi goreng for dinner followed by dehydrated apple crumble for desert. Having been carried along to many trips in the past we finally got to make the apple crumble, and to our surprise it was actually really good. Backpackers Pantry was the brand. After cleaning up we called it an early night and went to bed ready to make an early start in the morning.

Campsites at Camp Creek
The next morning we had packed down camp and were ready to leave by 7.30am. Quite an early start but we had the full walk back to Howitt Plains ahead of us, plus a 5 hour drive back to Melbourne. After picking up the AAWT we were back at the summit of Mt Speculation again, this time in the early morning sun with clouds hanging in the valleys. Amazing.

Early morning on Mt Speculation
The morning temperature was cool and fantastic to walk in, even the climbs up and down Mt Buggery went by without too much frustration. In true wilderness zone style, as we made our way back along the Crosscut, just south of Mt Buggery we noticed we were following a totally different foot track to that of out outward journey. This was infact a bonus as were taking a much higher route with far better views. It does however prove how easy it could be to journey in the wrong direction without even realising, fortunately the Crosscut is a narrow ridge and the direction of travel is quite obvious. We made good speed back along the Crosscut and arrived back at Mac Springs by lunchtime. With only a short stop we continued on keen to make it back to the car park. Things really couldn’t have worked out any better as at this point cos’ some horrible looking clouds were starting to roll in from the east. About an hour after leaving Mac Springs we were back at the car, feeling pretty happy with what we had managed to achieve, helped along by 3 days of good weather in a typically unstable area. I suspect this will last as one of my best trips in the area, although I hope there are many more to come…
More photos from this hike can be seen in the Gallery
Howitt Plains to Mt Speculation via Crosscut Saw
Distance: 27km Return
Time: 5-6 hours each way
Grade: Medium/Hard (Some steep scrambling)
Water: Fairly reliable at Mac Springs and Mt Spec
Access: AWD/4WD only (Seasonally Closed)
Mapping: Spatial Vision Buller-Howitt Alpine Area 1:50,000